米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Neil Barrett

這季Neil Barrett混搭了體操運動員和雞尾酒晚宴禮服這兩種看似截然不同的風格，再度展現他的奇思妙想。這個以「Breton Gymnast」為主題的時尚運動員男裝系列，看來可不是真的要給體操選手穿，因為極瘦剪裁的輪廓，根本容不下體操選手粗壯結實的手臂，但極窄的收束腰身，卻完完全全是要Neil Barrett男人展現他們在健身房（好吧…設計師的想法是在體育館）鍛鍊出來的好身材。黑白為主的服裝色系，偶爾出現鮮紅寶藍的亮眼色彩，把春夏清新俐落的情緒表現的一覽無遺。
相信不會有人能忘記中央聖馬丁畢業的英國人Neil Barrett，他是如何向Miuccia Prada毛遂自薦，開創出男裝系列的豐功偉績。專攻極簡主義設計的Neil Barrett，當其他人瘋迷於解構遊戲時，他堅持為男裝帶來乾淨俐落的完美結構與造型。這季的材質選擇上，出現許多新奇的高科技面料。不過並沒有出現像當年他為Prada帶來的窄版領帶，縮水處理外套…那樣劃時代意義的單品。

June 22, 2008

If you want the essence of Spring 2009 on Milan’s catwalks, you could look to the title Neil Barrett gave his latest collection: Sartorial Gymnast. Barrett has always loved a hybrid—recent themes include Tuxedo Ski and Visconti Punk—and he was originally going to call this one "Breton Gymnast." Brittany lingered on in the navy striped blazer over striped tee toward the end of the show, but "Sartorial" made more sense, considering how fundamental extreme tailoring is to the Barrett ethos. The designer took Milan’s current fusion of sportiness and formalwear to a logical extreme by making high-performance jersey fabrics the foundation of the collection—for jackets, pants, even a peacoat. Barrett can be an unforgiving body-con, but the material gave his signature leanness a little leeway. And the iconography of gymnastics introduced some appealing new visual elements into his vocabulary, primarily the graphic color scheme. It was intriguing to see how effortlessly Barrett’s inspiration dovetailed, once again, with his own particular style fixations. Who knew that gymnasts and skinheads had so much in common? The collection also left us with another cliff-hanger for next spring: Will real men take to stirrup pants?

— Tim Blanks

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