米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Giorgio Armani

春夏的Giorgio Armani似乎總是鍾情於閒散美好的渡假風情，印度風的鬆軟長褲，搭配上絲質西裝外套，低調清爽的白灰時尚融合亞洲風情，成為這一季亞曼尼的主調。模特兒走上白色風帆為背景的Runway，展現了亞曼尼獨有的優雅風格。

在男士夏季配件上，本季鞋款使用許多稀有獨特的材質再加以手工製作，包括柔軟的小牛皮、鱷魚皮、蛇皮等；顏色方面則多以自然色系為主，偶而點綴幾抹夏天繽紛色彩，而復古圓框眼鏡與七分褲休閒鞋，譜成21世紀亞曼尼紳士的新風貌；包款兼顧豪華與實用，材質方面採用的是手工縫製的麂皮，精緻的細部設計、非凡質感呈現，另外在本季中將長絲巾披掛在肩膀上，妝點出不同的風格，讓人深刻感受Armani既講究又具有功能性的手工技藝。就在最後所有的模特兒全坐在舞台上，就像是剛做完一場融合東西的時尚瑜伽，一起向Armani這位大師的創意致敬。

June 24, 2008

The exoticist that lurks in Giorgio Armani’s bosom doesn’t get enough exercise. Several decades ago, he offered a samurai-influenced collection that gonged memorably amid the greige that was making his name. With his latest men’s offering, Armani could almost have been channeling Yul Brynner in The King and I. The most powerful impression the collection left was the sheen of silk shantung in intense oriental shades of lilac, cyclamen, orange, and imperial purple. It was cut into what looked like cropped dhoti pants, the uniform of Giorgio’s model posse in the finale. They dropped into yoga poses and turned as one to face the sun king, Armani himself.

Metaphor? Well, there were plenty of other impressions. From the get-go, Armani was keen to de-emphasize structure. Pants were drawstrung, jackets as unconstructed as shirts. The silhouette was softened with scarves draped around the neck or tied round the waist instead of belts. Chenille cardigans and sinuous jacquards defined the torso. Leathers were perforated, washed, or textured in ways so artful they might as well have been paper. An outfit consisting of what might have been a pajama top paired with cropped pants expressed the consummate ease that Adrien Brody was praising backstage. But a jacket in ivory crocodile was a reminder that Armani’s ease is distinctly deluxe.

— Tim Blanks

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