米蘭时装周 2009春夏男裝－Etro

體驗這季Etro男裝的風格，不妨從時裝發布會的秀場背景看起。巨型的熱帶灌木，奇異花卉，鈷藍色的孔雀以及兩隻色彩斑斕的老虎……，經典的Paisley草履蟲招牌圖案依舊存在，但似乎變種而進化了，更具科技感且相當時髦。顏色和織紋卻又融合了異國元素。「神秘印度民族風」就是Etro這季給人的強烈印象。男模特兒身穿印花長袍，頭戴西式寬邊草帽，隨著印尼音樂步入秀場時，設計師Kean Etro把眾人帶往了神祕的東方島嶼。
陸續呈現的還有草綠色爪哇絲綢西裝，鑲有小波浪的豆綠色印度絲襯衫，四個口袋造型的絲質獵裝，西太平洋群島風格的花紋圍巾。仔細看不難發現，幾乎所有模特兒每人都腰纏一條的緬甸民族風腰帶，似乎是Etro在狂熱地向人們展示著他旅遊歸來的戰利品。這季春夏，不妨跟著Etro品牌Logo上的那隻飛馬逃離世俗，遠離禁錮。前往神秘的國度旅行，體味新奇的品位，和不同文化的風格與魅力。

June 24, 2008

The ferns and fronds of the jungle-y backdrop apparently reflected the origins of the paisley pattern that made Etro’s fortune. Maybe it was the simple integrity of such a notion that freed Kean Etro from some of the twistier concepts he’s saddled himself with in recent seasons. If the subsequent show was a celebration of the pleasures of paisley—in shirts, shorts, flowing robes, even as stencils on the models’ skin—it was also the loosest, sexiest, most potent presentation that Etro has offered in a dog’s age.

There’s often been a tension in Kean’s collections between the riotous opulence of the colors and patterns and the somewhat uptight tailoring. Here, the Etro dandy had relaxed. There were still plenty of suits, but uptight was upended by crumpled linen and shiny silk. Suit trousers might be cargo pants. Or they would be belted with a scarf or tie. (There weren’t too many ties around necks.) The Etro buccaneer wore his gorgeous silk shirts unbuttoned to the waist, unless they came with a broderie anglaise-trimmed placket, in which case there wasn’t anything to button. Kean’s trawl through the Southeast Asia in his mind came back with the Burmese longyi (for when a sarong simply isn’t enough). Sounds like dress-up, but the show looked like a dozen reasons to feel good about the season.

— Tim Blanks

[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]  ... 下一页  >>